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‘There’s no way you have gone all the way to South America to go bird watching’, a friend replied to my Instagram story a few days into my travels around Chilé. ‘My grandma would absolutely love this,’ she added.
As a 23-year-old Londoner with a penchant for pub Thursdays and Rowan’s in Finsbury Park, aviary observation has never been high on my agenda.
Neither, for that matter, had Chilé.
Prior to my trip, I’d never given much thought to this country of wild extremes; it seems everyone around my age prefers to travel in the opposite direction, across Thailand, the Philippines, Bali and Australia.
But now I know they are sorely missing out.
Thanks to its explosive nightlife, delicious food and breathtaking scenery, Chilé is now one of my favourite countries. It’s where I well and truly caught the bug for Latin America, so much so that I booked a ticket to Peru as soon as I returned.
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Santiago: City of culture and wine bars
Right in the middle of Chilé is its capital, Santiago, best described as a one-stop-shop for anyone who wants to see the country but doesn’t have much time to spend.
The city, which is surrounded by the towering Andes mountains and the shimmering Pacific, has all the hustle and bustle you would expect of a Latin American metropolis.
Historically overlooked in favour of more glamorous South American capitals such as Buenos Aires, Santiago is a city on the up. From thumping nightlife to exciting cuisine and some of the best street art on the continent, there’s something to suit every taste. I spent only one day in Santiago, but I’d recommend longer to explore all the city has to offer.
The most memorable stop on my whistle-stop tour is Bocanariz Vinobar, a cosy wine bar tucked away in the upmarket Santa Lucia district.
It’s where I got my first taste of Chilean red wine, which has made it difficult to enjoy my once beloved Tesco ‘chicken wine’ back home.
Santiago is replete with religious symbolism; Chileans take enormous pride in their Catholic faith.
Overlooking the city is a giant statue of the Virgin Mary, whose all-seeing eyes keep watch from atop the Cerro San Cristóbal, one of the country’s principal places of worship.
Santiago to the south: over the Andes
Lured from the capital by spectacular landscapes, I head one thousand kilometres south to Puerto Montt, a quaint 19th-century city founded during Germany’s colonial rule.
European influence remains strong here; it’s particularly evident in the architecture, with dozens of Bavarian-style Lutheran churches made from wood. In some areas, it’s common to see the German flag flying alongside the Chilean.
History aside though, most people come here for the scenery.
Speeding past lush green fields flanked by majestic peaks, it’s not hard to see why locals care so much about their environment.
Chilé’s incredible biodiversity has scooped up nominations at the World Travel Awards because of its deep commitment to sustainable tourism. It is regularly shortlisted for both Leading Green Destination and Leading Nature Destination — and in my eyes, it’s a clear winner.
In Puerto Varas, the lake district, I meet Felipe, a guide with the rewilding group BirdChile, who wastes no time telling me about the smorgasbord of winged creatures we’ll be able to spot on our expedition.
It’s refreshing to hear someone talk about something they are passionate about, and it’s clear from the way Felipe’s face lights up how much thought and effort goes into educating aspiring birdwatchers on these tours.
Bird watching was far from the South America I’d imagined; images of Rio’s infamous carnival had come to mind as I prepared for my trip.
But after an hour patiently listening for the mating call of the Chilean Magellanic woodpecker, I start to understand why retirees devote so much time to it.
There’s strange serenity in waiting for a bird call that may never come.
Felipe, armed with a JBL speaker, plays bird noises in the hope of attracting a response as we wait with baited breath.
As the youngest person on the tour, bringing down the average age by a solid 30 years, I rationalised the hobby in my own terms.
It’s a bit like Pokemon GO, without the jazz and battles.
Chiloé Island: paradise found
After three days in Puerto Varas, we catch the ferry to Chiloé Island, which soon becomes my favourite region.
Our first stop is Chacao, a small port village by the port dotted with wooden churches and souvenir shops. All are presided over by women rhythmically clacking knitting needles.
We take to the water on a zodiac for another round of birdwatching. A lone penguin stands on the rocks, staring aimlessly into the distance.
Felipe explains that due to climate change, they have lost many of the once thriving population.
That night is spent in Hotel Tierra Chiloe, one of the most incredible places I’ve stayed in my life.
The only property as far as the eye can see, the structure is built on stilts in the style of traditional Chilean homes, with huge windows flooding the interior with natural light and panoramic views.
The hotel has a strong commitment to sustainability and environmentally conscious tourism, reflective of the mindset of the Chilean people.
There’s an award-winning spa to unwind in after a long day of adventuring, and stays are all-inclusive. Rates are calculated per person, based on double occupancy.
Chilean grub: ‘stones of the sun’
Chileans adopt an outdoors-first approach to life.
In every restaurant, I’m told these people live off the land. Most follow the 100 miles rule, which means produce is sourced locally, 100 miles away or less.
After saying goodbye to bird-whisperer Felipe, I am passed to the trusted hands of Cyril, a guide from Chiloe Natural who takes me to experience an authentic Chilean barbecue using’stones of the sun’ (aka leaves and fire) to prepare meat and bread.
While the food was an acquired taste and a bit too meat-heavy for me, it was amazing to see the years of tradition that inspire this style of cooking.
The final stop on my transformational Chilean journey is the farm of Sandra Naiman, a specialist in agritourism who teaches other women how to farm organically.
Beaming with pride, Sandra takes us around her land, which she has cultivated with her hands using traditional methods passed down by her ancestors.
‘I’m really happy with the work I do. Although I mostly work alone, I see results and I know it can be done. Anyone can do it with a little sacrifice and patience,’ Sandra says.
‘It was really hard at first. I had to clean up the land, remove trees and create spaces. I started little by little, with flowers and garlic. Now I grow potatoes, both in the greenhouse and outside.
‘I have pigs, sheep, chickens. I define myself through my work, because I work alone all day long. I wake up very early and I go to bed very late.’
After saying goodbye to Sandra, I notice she stands waving outside her house until we’re out of sight.
A warm farewell from a people, and a country, I will return to.
Getting to Chilé
You can fly from the UK to Chilé with LATAM Airlines. Flights to Santiago are around £500 per person, with a connection in Sao Paolo, Brazil.
LATAM Airlines was named South America’s leading airline 2024for the ninth consecutive year in World Travel Awards (WTA), which is considered the Oscars of the tourism industry.
Lucia Botfield was a guest of LATAM Airlines, Chilé Travel and Hotel Tierra Chiloe.
Bengali (Bangladesh) · 
English (United States) ·