I love Greece, but there’s one city I’ll never go back to

I won’t be rushing back anytime soon (Picture: Getty Images)

In the third installment of Metro Travel Hot Takes, Courtney Pochin reveals why Greece’s ancient capital left her cold.

As much as I love the beach, I’ve never been a ‘fly and flop’ kind of gal. Personally, I much prefer a city break.

My favourite has always been New York; I never tire of seeing the skyline, Empire State Building, Central Park and the Statue of Liberty. I love it so much, I even got married there. 

Paris will always be the perfect destination for a chic weekend getaway, and I could wax lyrical about everything Rome has to offer (including where to find the best pasta). 

But there’s one popular spot you won’t find me rushing back to anytime soon: Athens.

A disappointing stroll

I’d always wanted to go to Greece (largely thanks to a childhood obsession with mythology and the Sisterhood of the Travelling Pants).

So when I found out the Holland America cruise I went on last summer was setting sail from Athens, I was thrilled. My husband and I decided to fly out a day ahead of the cruise so we’d have time to explore one of the world’s most ancient cities.

We spent a day exploring the Greek capital in my favourite way: without a strict schedule.

The buildings in the city didn’t do it for me (Picture: Nicolas Economou/NurPhoto via Getty Images)

Some people like to book tours or cram every tourist attraction possible into an itinerary, but I’ve always preferred to stroll about and see what I can find. I love stumbling across the unexpected and finding hidden gem foodie spots.

However, for the most part, walking around Athens didn’t give me the usual buzz I get from a good mooch around a city.

I spent a while trying to put my finger on why that is, and I think it’s because a lot of the city was quite run-down and there weren’t as many things to do.

Go to Rome and you can spend days taking it all in – from the Colosseum to the Trevi Fountain, the Vatican and Sistine Chapel – but once I reached the top of the Acropolis and gazed up in awe at the Parthenon (our first stop of the day), I felt done. I’d seen the thing I’d always wanted to see.

The city’s architecture also just didn’t do it for me.

I remember being so excited when I found out our hotel had a rooftop with views of the city — and so disappointed when I reached the top of the stairs.

I’d wanted to sit and bask in the sights, but was met with shabby grey post-war blocks stretching as far as the eye can see.

I hate to admit it and feel like a real snob for doing so, but I was just not in my element in Athens.

Redeeming features

However, there was one part of the city I did enjoy visiting, and that was the Plaka neighbourhood.

Sitting in the shadow of the Acropolis, Plaka is incredibly picturesque with its quaint, cobbled streets, lined with homes and businesses covered in rambling colourful flowers and plants. 

It’s everything I naively thought Athens would be… so naturally, it’s a massive tourist trap. 

That doesn’t mean it isn’t worth a visit, though, because it makes for a great stroll, wandering down alleys, browsing shops, and climbing the famous Plaka Stairs.

But there’s one thing I wouldn’t recommend doing here, no matter how tempted you are, and that’s buying food and drink.

As a food writer, I’m always looking for the most delicious thing to eat when I’m out, whether it’s in London or Greece, and it’s fair to say the food in Plaka, much like the area itself, is designed to appeal to holidaymakers — with prices to match.  

The Plaka Stairs, especially, are covered in cafes where the cost is as steep as the hill you’re sitting on. 

Some won’t see an issue with this, but if, like me, you’re after authentic food on your trip, I have the perfect place for you.

To Kati Allo can be found at Chatzichristou 12, Athina 117 42, and is a real hidden gem. While it’s likely not so hidden for those who live in the city, it will be for most who like to book dinners online, because it doesn’t have a website.

The restaurant is a real hidden gem with no website or social media (Picture: Courtney Pochin)

And before you ask, there are no social media pages either. This restaurant was undoubtedly my favourite thing about Athens.

Run by a local family, the only menu is written on a blackboard on the wall, so while I can’t tell you exactly what was on it, I can assure you that you won’t be disappointed.

The traditional, home-cooked Greek food is phenomenal and the prices are reasonable too.

We had a Greek Salad (€7) plus some grilled pork skewers (€8.50), but the priciest thing on the entire menu was the baked seabream which cost €14. 

We had to wait outside for a table after 8pm, but trust me when I tell you it’s worth the wait. Sit outside if you can and people-watch the night away.

The verdict

Athens had long been the stuff of legend for me, but the real thing just didn’t live up to its mythic status.

It was a bit like meeting your favourite pop star in real life, and them being nothing like you’d imagined. Or finally trying a viral dessert after queuing for hours, only to discover it’s been massively overhyped.

But it’s worth noting that it was my first time there and as we all know, first impressions can be deceiving.

Just because it wasn’t love at first sight for Athens and me, (I blame the grime and graffiti), doesn’t mean it won’t spark something special for you.

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