3 days ago
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Bavaria is a bit like a Renaissance painting. There are many layers to Germany’s largest (and in this writer’s view) most spectacular state.
It’s a region rooted in rich culture, from lederhosen and dirndls in the south to ancient wine in the north. All woven together by its people — some of the friendliest you’ll meet.
I spent the last days of summer road tripping across Bavaria to experience its magic myself.
Starting in Würzburg and making my way through Forchheim, Bamberg, Regensburg, and finally, Passau on the Austrian border, I was struck by how unique and beautiful each place is.
But for those thinking, ‘the seasons are changing, am I too late?,’ my answer is, quite simply, no.
There’s never a bad time to visit Bavaria. In fact, autumn is full of cultural delights, from Oktoberfest in Munich (which actually started last weekend and goes on until Sunday, October 4) to 900-year-old harvest festivals in Franconia.
Plus, now is the sweet spot for autumn colours: bright orange and yellow foliage transform gloomy forests into postcard scenes, where you can enjoy stunning nature trails without the crowds.
A Franconian welcome
First, a bit of background.
Bavaria covers approximately 27,240 square miles and has a population of around 13.2 million.
Around 4.5 million live in Franconia, a cultural and historical region in the northern part of the state, defined by wine-making traditions, medieval history, and fairytale architecture.
People here identify as Franconian rather than Bavarian because the region was added to the Kingdom of Bavaria in 1815 after the Napoleonic Wars.
After landing in Nuremberg and taking a one-hour Deutsche Bahn ICE train, I arrived in Würzburg in Lower Franconia (the area is divided into three).
It’s beautiful, but steeped in dark history: In March 1945, a British air raid destroyed roughly 90% of the city.
Today, must-sees include the Würzburger Residenz, a UNESCO World Heritage Site Baroque palace, and the 13th-century Marienberg Fortress, perched on a vineyard above the Old Main Bridge on the River Main.
You can see the latter while trying your hand at traditional Brückenschoppen (bridge drinking).
On my first night, I grabbed a glass of white wine from a small hatch in the wall and watched the sun set. The perfect start to a long weekend.
A city in the shadows
One of the best things about road trips is detours. You might find your new favourite town or city by veering off course a little.
This was how I stumbled across Forchheim in Upper Franconia, a true hidden gem overshadowed by its famous neighbour, Bamberg.
With half-timbered houses — some dating back to the 1300s — cobbled streets, and forested hillsides, it’s considered the Gateway to Franconian Switzerland.
Beer is big business here. After a tour of the town, where I was told Upper Franconia has the highest concentration of breweries in the world, I headed out on the apt ‘Walk of Beer.’
It passes the town’s remaining four breweries and ends at the Kellerwald, a woodland area with a network of beer gardens where I enjoyed a Seidla (a Franconian term for a half-litre mug of beer).
Sadly, we just missed Annafest, a ten-day beer and music festival held every July.
No matter though. Just 20 minutes down the road in Bamberg, I managed to catch Sandkerwa.
It’s the town’s largest and most popular traditional folk festival, held annually over five days in August in the historic UNESCO-listed Old Town.
The fest has come a long way since its 14th-century origins, which celebrated the founding of the local St. Elisabeth Church.
People spill out onto the streets, bratwurst in one hand, stein in the other, listening to traditional Franconian brass music and German Schlager.
I even tried — and loved — my first Bamberg smoked beer (Rauchbier) at the famous Schlenkerla.
A UNESCO World Heritage City
Few cities worldwide can boast two UNESCO World Heritage titles, but Regensburg belongs to this exclusive club.
Located in eastern Bavaria, the city sits on the pretty Danube River and is thought to have one of the best-preserved medieval Old Towns north of the Alps.
It was awarded its first World Heritage title in 2006 for Regensburg’s Old Town, and it really is stunning.
The second is for the Roman Danube Limes. Remnants of ancient Roman fortifications, watchtowers, and military infrastructure from the Roman Empire.
We arrived on Saturday morning in late August (but it’s just as beautiful in autumn), and despite the sore heads from the Sandkerwa, I had one of the best days in memory.
A day well spent in Regensburg goes something like this: grab a cappuccino at Cafe Prinzess, Germany’s first coffee house that opened in 1686.
It’s right next to the Rathaus (Old Town Hall), so it’s common to catch a wedding or two while enjoying a drink and a pastry.
If you’re still hungry, grab a bite at Wurstkuchl.
The historic cafe below the 12th-century Old Stone Bridge has riverside tables and serves up the best grilled sausages and sauerkraut with Regensburg sweet mustard.
From there, you can take a sightseeing cruise aboard the Regensburg Crystal Fleet to the Walhalla Memorial, one of Germany’s most important national monuments.
It’s designed in a Greek-revival style, and houses marble busts and plaques honouring famous Germanic artists, scientists, and leaders like Goethe, Mozart, and Beethoven.
A city on three rivers
Passau, a city on the Austrian border, completed my trip through Bavaria.
It’s known as the ‘City of Three Rivers’, where the Danube, Inn, and Ilz rivers meet. It’s without a doubt one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever explored.
On the Three-River city boat tour — board directly in front of Rathausplatz, not before sampling a delicious weissbier — you can see where the rivers connect, as the water changes colour.
Back on land, Passau’s architecture has a Mediterranean Baroque flair.
Ornate pastel buildings stand side-by-side, while in Residenzplatz, the intricate Wittelsbach Fountain stands proudly in the main square.
The fountain was actually built in 1903 to mark 100 years of Passau being part of Bavaria.
Hikers and history lovers, I’d also recommend climbing the hundreds of steps up to the Veste Oberhaus, a vast fortress founded in 1219, and one of the largest and best-preserved castle complexes in Europe.
It’s now a museum that offers a window into medieval castle life, while also shining a light on Passau’s colourful history.
Even if you’re not a museum-goer, it’s worth the trip to the top for the views of Passau alone.
But perhaps the jewel in Passau’s crown is St. Stephen’s Cathedral. This Baroque church has white towers and blue-green domes, the most beautiful ceiling frescoes and large windows that flood the interior with natural light.
If you can, catch an organ concert here on the largest cathedral organ in the world. It’s magical.
Though short and sweet, my Bavarian road trip exceeded any expectations I had.
From breathtaking scenery, moreish food, and impeccably preserved culture, it’s a region that should be on everyone’s bucket list.
How to get to Bavaria and where to stay
Bavaria is easy to reach from the UK. Ryanair flies from London Stansted to Nuremberg for as little as £20 one-way.
As for where to rest your head, I’d recommend the following:
Forchheim: If it’s a flying visit, book a room at Holiday Inn – the niu. The rooms are sleek and stylish, and there’s always staff on hand to help you out. There’s also a car park over the road that costs just €2 per day.
Standard rooms start from €74 (£63).
Regensburg: There’s no better location than the Old Town, and no better hotel than Altstadthotel Arch. Situated in the historic heart in a beautiful patrician house, it’s perfect for those who love the buzz of city life.
While the rooms ooze old-world charm with original timber ceilings, the main breakfast room has a contemporary feel. Being in the centre also means you’re a stone’s throw from all the major landmarks, including the Stone Bridge and Regensburg Cathedral.
Double rooms start from €120 (£102).
Passau: Pension Goldenes Schiff is a historic, family-run guesthouse and slow-food tavern, just a two-minute walk from Passau Cathedral and 1 km from the train station. The rooms are cosy and authentic, and all individually decorated with wooden floors.
The quaint restaurant serves regional German and Austrian dishes, while the beer garden is the perfect place to soak up the sun with a weissbier.
Double rooms start from €118 (£101) per night.
Sophie-May Williams was a guest of Bavaria Tourism, City of Forchheim, City of Regensburg and City of Passau, but don’t expect us to sugarcoat anything — our reviews are 100% independent.
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