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Home to almost 16 million people, Istanbul is a megawatt metropolis that sprawls some 2,000 square miles along the banks of the Bosphorus.
Nicknamed Turkey’s ‘Gate to the East’, this magical meeting place straddling two continents is a feast for the eyes, with bejewelled mosques, treasure trove bazaars and glorious street food at every turn.
It’s ancient, decadent, and at times, overwhelming.
But just a short ferry ride across the Marmara Sea is an oasis of calm — a tiny island where turquoise water and immaculate beaches are framed by a pine forest backdrop.
It exudes the vibe of a land that time forgot; there are no cars, no cinemas, no theatres.
I visited Büyükada on my second trip to Istanbul and discovered an under-the-radar gem that feels like a restorative breath in Europe’s largest city.
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‘Peace and forgetfulness’
Istanbul has two major tourist attractions that take a full day out of your holiday: a boat cruise down the Bosphorus (well worth doing), and a visit to one or more of the nine Adalar Islands (four are inhabited).
Known in English as ‘Princes’ Islands’, Adalar is where Byzantine Emperors and Ottoman Sultans banished princes and foes into exile.
The archipelago was the last refuge of the Ottoman Empire’s Greek and Armenian communities, many of them upper-class families who still own stately holiday homes today.
The jewel in the crown is Büyükada, the largest island with an area of about two square miles.
For centuries, writers and poets have mined this place for inspiration, and those in search of respite from the frenetic pace of the city have flocked here.
The most famous arrival is Leon Trotsky, who fled to the island to escape Soviet assassins in the 1930s. He famously described Büyükada as ‘an island of peace and forgetfulness’.
Seagulls and simit sellers
Amid a cacophony of seagulls and simit sellers, we set sail from the bustling port of Bostanci on Istanbul’s Asian side. It’s the shortest crossing – just over an hour – and I can already see the islands’ hazy outline on the horizon as we depart.
We emerge from the extravagantly tiled ferry terminal – a relic from the Ottoman heyday – the appeal is immediately clear.
I’m with two of my girlfriends, one born and partly raised in Istanbul, and even she is mesmerised by the scene.
Lavish but faded summer palaces line the streets, with rich tapestries of purple bougainvillea draped like curtains across the gates. Pomegranate juice is sold from roadside stalls.
Tree-lined boulevards are overshadowed by monasteries and minarets, and Greek-style tavernas abound in a nod to the island’s multicultural past.
Sandy beaches hug the shore, crystal clear water is dappled by sunlight, and the air is so fresh, you can taste it.
Aside from the odd police car, the island is car-free. Locals zip around on scooters and electric golf buggies, and visitors can rent bikes at the harbour.
It’s a side of Istanbul most tourists miss out on and welcome respite after navigating the crowds that throng the Hagia Sofia, Galata Tower and the Blue Mosque.
I’m told Büyükada is often overcrowded in summer, but during our visit in mid-September, it is lively yet quiet, a world away from the chaos of the city.
Pristine swimming spots
As well as culture and fascinating history, Büyükada’s major drawcard is its rolodex of pristine swimming spots.
Some are found behind the walls of high-end hotels, such as the Princes’ Palace Resort (a day pass is the equivalent of about £45, with one soft drink included).
A more affordable option is one of the larger beach clubs, like Yörükali Tesisleri Büyükada on the northern side of the island.
It has a restaurant and full-size cabana beds, plus umbrellas and loungers where you can spend a lazy day in the sun for just over £10 per person.
For a more secluded vibe, head to Nakibey Aile Plaj Tesisleri or Eskibağ Plaji, on the island’s undeveloped southern tip.
How to get to Adalar
Ferries link Istanbul to the Adalar Islands from multiple terminals across the city, including Eminönü and Kabataş on the European side, and Bostanci (the shortest crossing) on the Asian side.
One-way fares are the equivalent of between £1.50 and £2 with the IstanbulKart. It’s important to buy this preloaded card before you travel, as you’ll need it to pay for the buggies and electric buses that take you around the island.
You can bookmark the ferry timetable here.
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English (United States) ·