On the outskirts of Palma, I found the secret to the perfect city break

9 hours ago 4

Rommie Analytics

Aerial view of The Cathedral of Santa Maria of Palma. Mallorca, Spain.
Palma, the lively capital of Mallorca, is fabulously versatile (Picture: Getty Images)

Search for city break tips and the top result is invariably something about booking central accommodation.

But what if I told you the best city break I’ve had in a long time involved staying outside the city walls?

Palma, the lively capital of Mallorca, is less than a three-hour flight from London (which can be as cheap as £24 one-way with Easyjet, if you time your booking right).

Best known for vibrant nightlife, the Spanish city is packed with culture and architecture, along with an abundance of trendy cafes and restaurants. As Metro’s Amanda Cable writes, Palma is ‘Paris-by-the-sea: as romantic as the French capital, but minutes from glorious beaches and a jaw-dropping coastline’.

However, just a 25-minute drive away is Illetas, a beautiful town replete with white sandy beaches and Instagrammable coves that feels worlds away from Palma’s tourist traps.

A view of a traditional Spanish building on a street in Palma, Majorca, on a sunny day
Palma has been described as ‘Paris-by-the-sea’ (Picture: Getty Images)

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And, as I discovered, the local bus can drop you in the heart of Palma in under an hour for just €2.

Is the secret to the perfect city break staying somewhere else?

Exploring the city

I love the hustle and bustle of a city break as much as the next person. But as someone who also likes to chill out, it’s difficult to do both when you’ve only got 48 hours of holiday bliss.

It was for this reason that I booked into the Hotel BonSol, a clifftop resort towering over the Bay of Palma, about five miles from the city centre.

The hotel, which is designed in the style of a medieval castle, has a motto:‘Sunshine for the body, peace for the spirit and warmth for the heart’ — and boy does it deliver.

The Hotel BonSol is an ideal base for exploring the city (Picture: Barbara Feeney)

Terraced gardens are surrounded by lush palm and pine trees; there’s a touch of old-school glamour, with yellow parasols and stunning views wherever you turn.

The hotel has multiple pools, as well as tennis and squash courts, mini-golf, table tennis, boules and a daily yoga class, which takes place on a verandah overlooking the Balearic Sea. Standard rooms (half-board) start from €208 (£178) per night in May.

It’s got everything you could want, including an easy route to the city. The number 4 bus stops right outside the hotel, allowing which allowed me to explore the best Palma has to offer.

Things to do in Palma

Palma is versatile; it adapts to your needs, with everything for both a short stay or a two-week beach vacation.

And with balmy temperatures all year round – never dropping below 20 degrees between May and October – you really can have it all, even with only a couple of days to play with.

Ambling through cobbled streets and ancient passages of the old town, you are spoiled with history and magnificent architecture at every turn.

The cathedral is stunning and well worth a visit for the stained glass windows alone — they make incredible rainbows. It’s a must-see for fans of Gaudi, who famously restored part of the interior.

The Cathedral of Santa Maria of Palma in Palma de Mallorca, Mallorca, Spain
Palma Cathedral has interiors restored by Gaudi (Picture: Getty Images)

Although the city seems to have every known high street store, the indy boutiques are the real gems. Hidden behind the cathedral in a labyrinth of alleyways is Viti Vinci, an artisan perfume shop where you can create your own fragrance.

Once you’ve worked up an appetite, head to Mercat de l’Olivar, Palma’s best fresh produce market to try local delicacies such as sobrasada (spreadable sausage) and ensaimada, a spiralled sweet pastry.

Stroll 15 minutes from the market for a caffeine pitstop at Wunder Workshop, a natural coffee shop with wooden seating where you can sit and watch the world go by.

Palma from a different perspective

Metro‘s Lifestyle Editor Kristina Beanland visited Palma in 2024 and is still raving about Sail Palma.

‘They do small boat tours, with food and booze provided, and sail you out to a little cove where you can swim and lounge around on inflatables,’ she says.

Prices start from £68 per person.

Where to eat and drink in Palma

If there’s one place you can’t miss in Palma, it’s Restaurant OMBU.

Here we enjoyed mouth-watering dishes with highlights including chicken and pistachio croquettes with curry mayonnaise; roasted aubergine with harissa sauce, parmesan cream and pine nuts; and Iberian pork ribs with miso sauce and corn nut powder.

The bill was reasonable too, just €35 a head, with a bottle of Rioja thrown in.

There’s also Canela, one of the most famous restaurants in all of Mallorca. Michael Douglas says it’s his favourite place to eat on the island.

Other standouts include El Camino, a stylish spot that serves high-end tapas, and Bar Espana, a cheap and cheerful choice that doesn’t compromise on taste (expect to queue).

For a change from tapas, head to Cafe Poupette, a cute brunch spot in Parc de Sa Feixina that serves moreish croque madame.

Alternatively, a popular TikTok spot is Fika Farina, a Swedish bakery that specialises in cardamom buns.

After dinner, there’s no better way to unwind than with a glass of Majorcan Spritz, a zesty drink made with a local orange-based aperitif, sparkling wine and grapefruit soda.

The streets are abuzz with trendy joints, but it’s hard to look past Bar Abaco.

Located in the Old Town of Palma (La Lonja district), behind the inconspicuous door is a mansion styled with opulent 17th-century decor and antique furniture draped in Mallorcan linen.

Classical music and immaculately-dressed wait staff create the illusion of stepping back in time.

The extensive cocktail list lives up to the occasion with each costing around €17; it’s not cheap, but the Financial Times did describe it as ‘the most remarkable bar in the world’.

The new rule that treats Mallorca tourists 'like animals'

A new tourism rule set to take effect in the popular Spanish holiday destination of Mallorca is dividing the nation.

As it stands, guided walking tours can accommodate up to 70 in the Balearic Islands. But new requirements in Palma, Mallorca’s capital, will see tours limited to 20 people per group.

Tourism agencies such as Proguies Turístics de Baleares have been quick to criticise the decision, while the agency’s president, Gabriel Rosales, has questioned how authorities will monitor groups of 20 if non-paying tourists join a tour ‘on the fly.’

He said: ‘Are we going to tag them like animals? Or hand out batons to keep out the “unauthorised” tourists?’

Similarly, the Balearic Islands’ Travel Agencies Business Association (Aviba) warned that Mallorca’s tourism would be seriously affected should the measures be implemented.

Aviba CEO Pedro Fiol says a limit of 20 people would make tours more expensive for both travellers and providers.

For businesses, the rule would require hiring more guides, therefore increasing wages. But there’s another problem. Mr Fiol claims Palma does not have enough guides in the first place.

He says this has been a longstanding issue: Over the last 16 years, no new official guide role positions have been advertised. However, the Council of Mallorca says this will change in 2025.

As for tourists, Fiol suggests they would inherit the extra costs. Tour prices would inevitably rise, which would have a direct effect on local businesses. As a consequence, visitors would spend less money.

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