2 days ago
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It’s 25°C at the beginning of August.
As I stroll along a wide river — the banks embroidered with trendy restaurants and tomato-red poppies — I pass young couples on benches, laughing and cuddling. Friends lounge on the grass, soaking up the sun, and around us, the cobbled streets feel safe and alive.
It could be Paris or Amsterdam, but I’m in Turku, Finland’s oldest city and former capital, on the south-west coast.
Considered the gateway to the world’s largest archipelago and renowned for its culinary scene, there are many reasons to visit, yet it remains largely under the radar. Only 250,000 international tourists make the trip each year.
And that’s why it makes such a brilliant city break: fascinating history, experimental food and cosmopolitan cafe culture, all without the crowds.
Culture and calmness collide
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There’s a Finnish saying that goes: ‘Why visit Paris when you have Turku?’
But outside this country of 5.6 million people, few have any clue what this city has to offer.
As I reach the Gothic Revival cathedral that towers over the Aura River, I’m shocked at how quiet it is. Despite the summer season — and being one of Turku’s most significant landmarks — I feel like I have the place all to myself.
In some ways, I do.
I meet local guide, Annamari, for a one-to-one tour of the church and its surrounding neighbourhoods.
She tells me the cathedral is the only medieval basilica in Finland, dating back to the 13th century. It’s home to the tomb of Swedish Queen, Karin Månsdotter, who reigned alongside her husband, King Erik XIV, in 1568.
Turku Cathedral is open daily from 9am to 6pm, and is free to visit. Riverside and Old Medieval walking tours cost €15 (£13).
History lesson complete, I walk to Art House Turku, a cultural hub spread across six floors of a former tobacco factory in the Old Town.
It’s a smorgasbord of creativity: in the courtyard, an outdoor theatre hosts everything from choirs to comedy collectives.
Two young rappers have taken to the stage this afternoon — while I don’t understand their lyrics, it’s clear Finns rate the boys as the ‘next big thing.’
Inside, resident artists work on their latest exhibitions, both visual and performative, as visitors watch them in real-time.
A city beneath a city
One of my favourite things about Turku is its walkability.
Three minutes after leaving the Art House, I beeline to Aboa Vetus, the only archaeological museum in Finland.
The museum is home to a medieval town discovered beneath the current city in the 1990s.
Annamari explains how ruins of centuries-old houses, plus the ‘Convent Riverfront,’ one of Turku’s main streets during the Middle Ages, span for miles underground.
Entry to the museum costs €20 (£17).
Don’t have the funds? Don’t worry. The entrance, cafe, and gift shop feature glass floors, meaning you can get a glimpse into the past for free.
A foodie’s dream
It doesn’t have the clout of New York or San Sebastian, but Turku has a thriving culinary scene that hits the same high notes.
Having been officially declared the Food Capital of Finland, it boasts some of the country’s highest-quality and oldest restaurants.
Turku’s Market Square is worth a visit, but the culinary highlight of my trip is the Scandinavian riverside Restaurant Mami.
The four-course tasting menu is delicious from start to finish, and I highly recommend the ox carpaccio served with capers, onions, parmesan and aioli.
It’s service with a smile and buckets of knowledge about wine and pairings. Well worth the price, at €121 (£105) with wine and €73 (£63) without.
A surprisingly affordable day trip
Finland is expensive, but for the price of a London cappuccino, you can take a day trip from Turku to nearby Ruissalo Island.
A short spin on the Föli line 8 bus from Downtown Turku – tickets cost €5 (£4.34) – will bring you face to face with the country’s breathtaking landscape.
Just 15 minutes from the city is the oak forest and rugged cliffs of Kansanpuisto park— a paradise for hikers and anyone who loves being outdoors.
The park is a popular weekend getaway for locals, and you can hike, bike, kayak or swim as well as visit a charming botanical garden.
How to get to Turku
Fly from London Heathrow to Helsinki with Finnair. Economy fares start from £167.
Take the train from Helsinki Airport to Turku, changing once at Pasila. The journey takes around 2 hours and 30 minutes. A return ticket costs €23 (£20).
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