Forget Nice – there’s an underrated French seaside town Brits haven’t found yet

A dreamscape of golden sand, classical villas and rolling vineyards, this sleepy part of southern France was everything Alexander O’Loughlin imagined it would be (Picture: Alexander O’Loughlin)

I recently took a trip to an extremely southern French seaside town which is so close to Spain that I flew into Barcelona to get there.

With a lovely mix of Catalan and French and an understated chicness, it’sthe destination to add to your list of easy, accessible trips that guarantee a genuinely relaxing holiday.

When it comes to the French seaside, us Brits usually jump to the key players: Nice, Cannes or Saint-Tropez.

But take a scroll down the map to the Languedoc coast, and you’ll find the sleepy town of Argelès-sur-Mer.

Accessible from airports including Perpignan, Girona and Barcelona, this spot has a classic beachfront, plenty of decent places to eat and more than enough sunbeds to get through a book or two.

I stayed at Hôtel Les Mouettes, which had a boutique feel, rooms reminiscent of a summer holiday in the early 2000s and a peaceful pool area with a view of the coastline.

In the spirit of easy holidays, it ticked all the boxes: a comfy room with air con, a private balcony, a great breakfast spread, a pool, a hot tub, and a pool bar. You get the picture.

Perfect conditions: the town is nestled between the foothills of the Pyrenees and the sparkling Mediterranean Sea (Picture: Alexander O’Loughlin)

The book I was reading while I was there was a philosophical look at the potential existence of extraterrestrial life, the grandiose nature of life itself and the minuscule part we, as individuals, play within it.

As I lounged by the pool, drifting into an existential daze, I found myself thinking about what I actually value when it comes to holidays.

As someone who has travelled a decent amount, I realised that too often, I sleep on sleepy holidays.

Me, the view, my book and an iced tea. I looked out and thought about life, its unpredictability and its shortness, and realised that feeling calm is just as important as finding a full-throttle experience.

Argelès-sur-Mer is a breath of fresh air. Its history is layered and deep, shaped by its position on the Mediterranean and the border between France and Spain.

Castles and churches here date back as far as the 14th Century, though this is more like the 19th (Picture: Alexander O’Loughlin)

Part of that tapestry can be seen in the majestic Château de Valmy, a fairytale Belle Époque palace built between 1888 and 1900 by wealthy rolling paper tycoon Pierre Bardou as a gift for his daughter.

A top pick for where to eat is Le Bistrot à la Mer at Grand Hôtel du Golfe, just a short walk from Les Mouettes.

With a view to die for and an elevated luxury interior, this haunt feels like stepping into a 1980s Paris Match cover, and that’s not just because the hallways are lined with them.

Medieval towns embroider this stretch of France’s southern coast (Picture: Florent Martin/Getty Images)

Chef Vincent Estruc’s menu is undeniably next level, with French techniques meeting flavour profiles and ingredients that reflect the unique border culture of the Roussillon-Catalonia region.

The family who own the hotel also produce their own wine, Domaine Terre Jaume, which makes the perfect companion to the sea-view sunset.

In terms of activities, the area offers plenty of hiking opportunities and coastal walks.

I also took a ride around town on a traditional Solex, the iconic French moped powered by a friction roller on the front tyre and produced in huge numbers between 1946 and 1988.

The perfect ride for a spin down the promenade (Picture: Alexander O’Loughlin)

In theory, it’s a lovely way to see the region. In practice, it’s pretty bumpy with limited suspension. Nonetheless, it was great fun.

Whilst not part of Provence, Argelès is still home to some wonderful wine producers, such as De Prade Jorda, a fourth-generation, family-owned winery spanning more than 80 hectares and producing a variety of local wines, including Côtes Catalanes, Côtes du Roussillon and traditional method sparkling wines.

The real gem of De Prade Jorda, though, is lunch in their vineyard.

The producers take you on a walking tour up the rolling hills and through the grapevines, tasting different bottles as you go.

Once you reach the top, a marquee awaits, fresh produce is being barbecued to one side and several more bottles of vino are ready for the afternoon ahead.

Time doesn’t matter up there. Hours pass chatting over wine, cheese and chocolate, and to me, that sounds like a perfect day.

Lunch with a view. Our writer could get used to this (Picture: Alexander O’Loughlin)

On the tour, after attempting to identify the flavour profiles, I was told I’m ‘very Italian’ because I’m ‘never sure’. In true fashion, I wasn’t entirely sure what that meant. Cosa intendi?

Argelès also has the reputation of being the camping capital of Europe, which would usually make for a great headline.

I didn’t camp, but after visiting Camping Le Dauphin, I wish I had.

This isn’t a Duke of Edinburgh-style campsite like you might be imagining.

It’s practically a neighbourhood, with four and five-star sites spread across 60 hectares of greenery, complete with a water park, bars and every premium facility you could need.

After a quick tour, I ate at Arbor & Sens, located within the campsite, and this has to take the crown for the best dinner I’ve ever had on a campsite.

You dine beneath a giant tree draped in lanterns, with chilled bossa nova drifting through the air, while the farm-to-table food created by Chef Nicolas is genuinely top-notch.

…see? (Picture: Alexander O’Loughlin)

He’s a man who understands ingredients, making full use of his on-site garden.

Another must-do activity is a tour and tasting at Domaine de la Mer Blanche, an artisanal organic citrus farm and distillery where you can try liqueurs such as kumquatcello, yuzucello and caviarcello.

On my final day, I took a kayak out to sea and I couldn’t recommend it enough.

The water is the bread and butter of this town, so whether by kayak, boat or simply swimming, you have to get in.

Save this article for later and get Argelès-sur-Mer on your travel list now.

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