Chasing waterfalls and a Great Blue Hole, I fell hard for ‘The Jewel’

Belize’s ocean is enough to take your breath away (Picture: Getty Images)

Leaving London, the weather couldn’t decide between drizzle and all-out downpour.

I wasn’t just after sunshine. I wanted a place where ‘productivity’ meant remembering to reapply sunscreen before noon.

Belize was exactly that. Not the Caribbean of infinity pools and stiff cocktails, but somewhere refreshingly real.

Beaches with more driftwood than Instagrammers, bartenders who double as turtle-spotting experts, and a vibe so laid-back that a major public announcement is ‘The snorkel boat leaves at 9… or maybe 10.’

First stop: Hopkins

It might be known as ‘The Jewel’, a nickname that reflects its rich cultural heritage and natural beauty, but Belize is not on the main Caribbean tourist trail just yet.

That path is currently populated by Barbados, St Lucia and Anguilla, but the Central American country has seen an increase in tourists in recent years. In 2024, it clocked a record-breaking 562,405 overnight visitors.

In January, prestigious travel association ABTA named Belize as a destination to watch for 2025, citing its lush rainforests, pristine beaches, and ancient Mayan ruins as major drawcards for responsible adventurers.

Belize is not on the main Caribbean tourist trail, yet (Picture: Metro)

Landing on Belizean soil, I made my way to the Tropic Air Dangriga flight, which would take me on a breathtaking journey from Belize City to Dangriga in 20 minutes.

Through scratched plexiglass windows, the reef emerges below like a jagged turquoise line against deeper blue, the coastline veined with mangrove channels.

The 12-seat Cessna Caravan is not for the faint-hearted — it’s a tiny capsule in which you can hear every word of the pilot, without a Tannoy system. A one-way ticket costs about £83.

At the tiny airstrip – a concrete slab flanked by palm trees – I arrive alive, and a short drive takes me to The Lodge at Jaguar Reef.

The ceviche bar at The Lodge at Jaguar Reef (Picture: The Lodge at Jaguar Reef)

This hotel is essentially a collection of beachfront suites, complete with private plunge pools and a deck just steps from the ocean.

The vibe is barefoot luxury: local wood, open-plan design, and a sea breeze drifting through windows. Rooms here range from approximately £189 to £334 per night, depending on the season and room type.

Exploring the town

Hopkins village moves at the pace of bicycle traffic and the occasional golf cart.

I am guided by Get to Know Belize Adventures and as we drive around in our golf buggy, I’m struck by how peaceful this place is.

More surprising is pulling up to the community square and seeing police officers repainting benches for the community. ‘It needs a sprucing up,’ one tells me. ‘So here we are.’

Not your average police force (Picture: Dom Hines)

Nearby, I find a small bakery where I try fried jack, a buttery, fluffy pastry that’s a Belizean staple, served by the smiling owner, her hands dusted in flour.

The Garifuna people, descendants of West African, Carib, and Arawak ancestors, are central to Hopkins’ culture. Exiled from St. Vincent in the 18th century, they settled along Belize’s coast, maintaining their unique language, music, and traditions.

My immersion begins with cooking hudut, a traditional fish and coconut stew, in an outdoor kitchen.

My guide’s wife shows me how to grate fresh coconut for the rich broth, then demonstrates the art of cracking one open with a machete.

‘Make yourself at home’: I was given a traditional outfit for my cookery tutorial (Pic: Dom Hines)

We pound plantains in a giant wooden mortar as the fish simmers away with coconut milk, garlic, onions, and habanero peppers.

Eating it together at a long, rough-hewn table, the hudut’s creamy broth balances the earthy mashed plantains perfectly.

After lunch, a drumming lesson shifts to the beach. Local musicians teach me the basic rhythms of the primero and segunda drums.

At first, I struggle to find the beat, but soon the sound of the waves and the music blur together.

By sunset, I’m dancing barefoot in the sand, badly but blissfully.

Night magic

Later, we head out for a bioluminescence tour of Anderson Lagoon, and I’m told to expect magic.

A mixture of excited and cynical, we sail through a tiny cut to get to the lagoon and find ourselves surrounded by giant mangroves.

It’s pitch black, the guide’s flashlight beam cutting across the lagoon is the only light — then he turns it off. The boat picks up speed and the wake glows. Blue streams of light surrounds us from the water.

As the boat pick upspeed, the tiny algae, which settle in the lagoon during the dry season, get agitated and glow, which for a bioluminescent newbie like me is mind-blowing.

After a short boat ride through narrow mangrove channels, the captain kills the engine.

In the dark stillness, every movement in the water sparks blue light — tiny bursts of, yes, living magic.

Swimming through it feels like gliding through liquid stars, my arms trailing glowing comet tails. Tours cost approximately £56 per person.

Chasing Waterfalls

The next day’s adventure feels a bit like driving through a film set.

Winding along roads lined with orange groves and passing through the dreamlike Bamboo Cathedral – a natural tunnel of towering bamboo – is an experience in itself.

As if the ride isn’t dreamy enough, the road to the waterfall winds along the side of the mountain, with tall trees reaching above you and creating much-needed shade.

Belize’s verdant landscapes are a wonder (Picture: Getty Images)

We reach Maya King Waterfall, (entry £8 per person) in the Maya Mountains of the South East Coast. The two cascading falls are at their most dramatic during rainy season, crashing down into clear pools below.

I could have spent hours here, soaking up the vibe, the only sound the rushing water echoing around us.

Placencia

In the charming village of Placencia, the footpath winds between brightly painted shops and beach bars.

The Creole beach town is proud of its spot in the Guinness Book of World Records, where it’s recognised for having the narrowest main street in the world. It’s actually a 4,000-foot long footpath that is just four feet wide.

A stroll along the pedestrian ‘street’ takes you past quaint rows of local artists’ stalls, eclectic shops and cheekily-named beach bars.

The village has managed to retain its boho vibe, despite a recent influx of wealthy American and Canadian retirees.

Film director Francis Ford Coppola even opened a hotel here, the eco-friendly Turtle Inn.

Placencia’s ‘main street’ (Picture: Dom Hines) The town’s most popular bar — can you guess why? (Picture: Dom Hines)

It’s hard not to fall for the pace: no rush, no pressure, just friendly locals, lilting music, and the salty scent of the sea.

My favourite perch is Tutti Frutti ice cream parlour, which serves delicious flavours like sour sop, a creamy local fruit beloved across the Caribbean that’s usually made into a refreshing drink.

Island Vibes: San Pedro and Ambergris Caye

After indulging in Placencia, a short Tropic Air hop (£75 one-way) takes me to San Pedro on Ambergris Caye.

San Pedro is giving Wes Anderson: pastel-coloured wooden buildings, narrow sandy streets, and golf carts buzzing around as the main form of transport.

In fact, my ‘taxi’ from the mini-airport to Ramon’s Village Resort is a golf buggy (golf cart rentals cost about £7 per hour), although you could easily walk it if you wanted.

Ramon’s Village feels like stepping back in time, in the best way. Thatched-roof cabanas, lush tropical gardens, hammocks swinging in the breeze.

Kayaks at a tropical white sand beach in the coastline of Belize (Picture: Getty Images)

Everything here is designed to help you unplug. Room rates vary by season and type, ranging from £135 to £360.

Reggae music floats from bars and beach shacks all over town, a nod to Belize’s cultural ties to Jamaica (both were once British colonies).

It shows up in the food too: comforting dishes like stew chicken, rice and kidney beans, fried jacks (similar to Jamaican fried dumplings), and sweet plantain accompany almost every meal. Familiar, yet quintessentially Belizean.

Tasting Belize: The Food Tour

That evening, I join the Belize Food Tour, which turns out to be one of the best ways to experience San Pedro’s spirit.

Walking between stops with a chatty group of fellow travellers and locals, we try everything from fresh conch ceviche to grilled lobster, tamales wrapped in banana leaves, and rich coconut pies.

Along the way, we get snippets of history, gossip, and restaurant secrets—it’s less like a formal tour and more like wandering town with new friends who know all the best bites. Approximately £57 per person.

Deep sea adventures

The next morning, it’s time for the ultimate snorkelling trip to Hol Chan marine reserve and Shark Ray Alley. Also known as ‘Little Channel’, it has impossibly clear waters and coral gardens teeming with life.

Swimming alongside rays and nurse sharks is thrilling for some, but full disclosure, it’s not for me.

The water in Belize looks ethereal from above (Picture: Getty Images)

While hanging on to the side of the boat, I do manage to capture a semblance of magic as I duck my head in. A kaleidoscope of fish glide past me; if you’re into that sort of thing, this place is a veritable underwater theme park.

Epic Finale: The Blue Hole

Before leaving Belize, there’s one final bucket-list moment: a scenic flyover of the iconic Great Blue Hole.

From the air, the vast circular sinkhole looks surreal: deep, endless blue surrounded by the lighter turquoise of the reef. You might even spot dolphins or manatees swimming below if you’re lucky.

It’s humbling and breathtaking all at once. Scenic flights cost £200 per person, or, if you prefer to get up close and personal, sea tours typically cost around £100, including snorkel gear and guide.

It sounds trite, but each new day in Belize brings new adventure and fresh perspective. It’s the kind of place that reminds you to slow down… and eat everything.

I’ve fallen for Belize and the love feels reciprocated. What more could you want?