12 hours ago
5 
Ah, Italy. Home of pasta, leaning towers and some of the world’s best beaches.
There are hundreds of reasons why La Dolce Vita is at the top of almost everyone’s bucket list. But with a rich tapestry of destinations boasting an abundance of culture and cuisine, it can be difficult to choose only one.
Dozens of Reddit threads are devoted to this conundrum. One of the most popular queries is whether to head for Portofino, on the Amalfi Coast, or Lake Como, an upscale resort in the northern region.
I stayed at hotels in both to find out where you should spend your time and money sipping limoncello this summer — here is my honest review.
The case for Como
Putting two iconic destinations head to head in a Gladiator-esque battle required strict rules of engagement. I needed to stay at hotels of similar standard (both are part of the same R Collection group), and choose activities that could be fairly compared.
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In Lake Como, I checked in to the Grand Hotel Victoria, an imposing lakeside building built in 1890 in Menaggio, an ancient town on the lake’s western shore.
There are modern interiors and a traditional facade, with polished marble floors and chandeliers decorating the pristine white lobby. On the ground floor is a high-end cocktail bar that serves a Rossini, a prosecco and a fresh strawberry drink that puts Bucks Fizz to shame.
Like all luxury hotels in the Como area, the bedroom was spectacular, complete with cotton sheets of a higher thread count than any I’ve ever slept in, plus a dressing room and a bathroom with the best rainfall shower I’ve ever experienced.
Elegant touches such as a fruit basket and a bouquet of fresh flowers would usually be the first thing I’d gravitate towards. But instead, the massive Juliet balconies had me hooked. The view is the hotel’s USP.
The price per room is not cheap (standard rooms from £580 in low season, and from an eye-watering £1,078 in high season), but given the location and high-end comforts, in this part of the world it’s par for the course.
On-site are a range of activities, including cookery classes hosted by friendly staff who managed to teach me how to make fresh pesto and tiramisu, all while sipping on prosecco.
No mean feat for someone who once set fire to frozen chicken in a microwave.
The hotel has one of the most elegant spas I’ve seen, with treatments aimed at destressing different parts of your body.
A full-body oil massage was the perfect way to untie every knot, and a walk through the reflexology-inspired shower trail with alternating temperatures really got my blood pumping.
Outside is a beach club, with private cabanas and sun loungers surrounding a large pool overlooking the lake.
Beyond the resort walls, Menaggio is a good base for exploring Como.
Characterised by winding narrow streets, the town is less touristy than neighbouring Bellagio or Varenna, both a short boat ride across the water.
Menaggio is home to an abundance of swanky restaurants. Local hotspot Darsena serves some of the best pasta I’ve ever eaten. For lunch, a plate of fresh pasta and wild boar ragu will set you back about £17, much the same as London prices.
Check the menu before you sit down, though: in high season, an Aperol Spritz in a central location could force you to remortgage your flat.
From the hotel, dozens of shops and bars are within walking distance, as well as ferry boats travelling across the lake to Varenna, a viral Instagram location.
One of the most deluged spots is The Hotel Cipressi, where an attractive entranceway known as the ‘gates of heaven’ draws hordes of influencers each day.
Lake Como has never been a hidden gem, but overtourism has intensified in recent years. In April 2024, a tourist tax charging day-trippers a 5 euro entry fee was rolled out.
Officials said the tax was designed to reduce overcrowding at peak times, and came in addition to city taxes for overnight stays.
I visited in October, at the tail end of the season, which meant many streets were deserted. It’s worth planning a trip for the shoulder seasons if you want peace and quiet.
Grand Hotel Victoria Concept & Spa: 9/10
The case for Portofino
Rested and rejuvenated from my time on the lake, I headed three hours south to Portofino, a trendy fishing village on the Amalfi Coast that’s regularly referred to as Italy’s most beautiful destination.
My digs here were the Grand Hotel Bristol Spa Resort in Rapallo, a maximalist powder pink mansion that looks a lot like The Grand Budapest Hotel.
The hotel has been designed so that nearly every room has an unobstructed view of the sea.
More casual than its glitzy Lake Como counterpart, the Bristol reminded me of a seaside hotel you might find in Brighton. Lovely, but not high-end.
The rooms were attractive but simple, with a blue and yellow colour scheme and a bathroom with wooden fixtures. Nothing too flashy, and the price is reflective of that; standard rooms start from £193 in low season, rising to £354 in high season.
Set on a hill and with only two small lifts in the building, the hotel is not accessible. It has a spacious veranda for al fresco dining, cocktails and breakfast in the sun, as well as a rooftop fine dining restaurant called Le Cupole with sweeping ocean views.
A fun (if a bit kitsch) touch is the Campari-inspired bar, with bold red leather couches and huge abstract paintings.
A spa on the lower levels has a huge outdoor pool that’s a great place to cosy up with a book. The hotel also has a tiny art gallery that’s open to the public and promotes the work of local artists.
Beyond the resort, Portofino is a short car ride or ferry boat away. It’s easy to get into the town, where hotel prices are a lot more expensive.
Exploring the town, I enjoyed a cappuccino at the Dolce and Gabbana shop, then ate an excellent lunch at Ristorante Da I Gemelli. The sole in butter and ‘Grandmother’s pasta’ were standouts, but they don’t come cheap. When I visited last year, a bowl of fish soup was an eye-watering £34.
For the best view in town, head to Castello Brown, the fortress of San Giorgio, high on the cliffside. The panorama is beautiful, but like everything in Portofino, it will cost you. (£4.25 in low season and £6.80 in high.)
Grand Hotel Bristol Resort & Spa: 7/10
The verdict
Looking back, my fondest memories are all in Lake Como. The hotel was swankier, but with sky-high prices in both destinations, it also felt better value for money.
The sea views in Portofino and Rapallo were stunning, but Como had the edge (my incessant Instagram posting acts as testimony).
There’s plenty to do in both, but Menaggio had more variety, and it felt like normal life was going on there – less a faux bubble of luxury tourism.
In Como, too, expensive drinks were accompanied with proper aperitivi of crisps, olives and sometimes even arancini. In Portofino, the drinks were just as pricey without the ‘free’ snacks on the side.
If you’re debating between the two, opt for Lake Como. It’s larger, has more to explore, and is more upfront about the designer price tag that it proudly wears.
Laura Harman was a guest of R Collection.
Rooms at the Grand Hotel Victoria in Lake Como start from £580 in low season, and from £1,078 in high season.
At the Grand Hotel Bristol Spa Resort in Rapallo, rooms start from £192 in low season, rising to £353 in high season.
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English (United States) ·